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General Horse and Riding Tips
Practice commonsense safety around your
horse
No matter how gentle your horse, there is
always the chance for injury when you are around it. A horseman keeps in
mind that, in the wild, a horse is a “flight animal.” His defense from
danger is to run away. If you are in the way, you could easily be hurt.
It’s better to be safe than sorry. Always
remember that a horse is much larger than you, and can, under the proper
circumstances, hurt you. Here are a few suggestions to remember when
working with your horse.
1. Always plan ahead what you are going to
do with your horse. Don’t just walk up to catch or untie the animal
without thinking out your plan of action. It can help eliminate the chance
of an accident.
2. Speak to the horse when you walk up to
it. This warns the animal that you are there and decreases the chance it
will be surprised. Speak first, then touch. Remember, if the horse is
startled, he may jump and to try to escape . . . and you could be in the
way.
3. Don’t put yourself in a position where
you can’t get out of the way when grooming, saddling or unsaddling your
horse. For example, DO NOT push your way between the horse and the fence,
barn or trailer to which he is tied. He might suddenly jump, step on you,
or crowd you into a solid wall. An outside source (dog, car, sudden noise
or a quick movement from another person) can easily trigger the horse’s
“flight response.” If you can’t escape quickly, you might be hurt. Have
the horse directly facing the tie point before you move in toward his
head. That way, you have room to avoid any sudden movements.
4. When working around your horse’s
hindquarters, stay in close. If he does kick, you will not receive the
full impact.
When you walk around the rear, stay well
out of kicking range, or place a hand on his hip as you circle around and
stay in close.
5. Be extra-careful if small children are
around. Many horses aren’t used to “miniature humans” and can become
frightened by them. Or, a child can suddenly dart up close or underneath
the animal.
A child with a noisy toy like a wagon or
pushcar is another combination that will cause most horses to spook. The
animal doesn’t know what it is and wants to get away. The best way to
handle the situation is to keep children completely away from the horse
unless the animal is being held by an adult and you know it is
extra-gentle. You don’t want a child, yourself or your horse hurt.
6. Loose dogs are another accident just
waiting to happen, especially if they are not used to horses. To them,
barking or frolicking around is play. To the horse, such movement might
represent a wolf about to attack and the horse will want to get away. Many
horses don’t like dogs and will kick if they get the opportunity. Keep
dogs well away from the horse . . . and quiet.
7. Make sure that your horse is trained to
stand tied. A horse that “sets back” against the rope, trying to break
loose, or that is continually pawing or moving around is out of control
and dangerous to be around. If he does pull back, break the halter or lead
rope and get loose, there’s more trouble. Not only can he be hard to
catch, but he might run into another horse, get kicked or injure another
animal.
Always make a point of tying to something
very solid that the horse cannot tear down or jerk loose. And be sure that
you tie up with the rope withers-high. You want the rope this high so the
horse can’t get a front foot over it, or injure himself by dislocating the
atlas joint at the poll because the pull from the rope is too low. Tying
your horse up and letting him stand at home is good training for when you
are out in public.
8. Be sure your horse is gentle about
having his feet handled. Clean them out daily and before riding. Learn,
and practice, the correct way to pick up the feet (your farrier will be
glad to teach you). Make a daily habit of checking the shoes to make sure
that they fit and the nails are tight. 9. Know the correct knots to use
when tying a horse. Always use one that can be jerked loose if need be.
And, be sure what you tie to is solid. If he suddenly sets back, pulls the
tie ring out, the hitch rack loose or the rope breaks, the horse may
stampede in fright. It is also a good habit to regularly check your tie
rope. If the snaps are rusted or loose, or if the rope is old, frayed or
worn, replace it before it breaks when the horse suddenly pulls back.
10. Don’t clown around when you are
working with horses. A quick move, loud sound or waving an arm near the
animal’s head can cause it to panic. The same holds true when you’re
riding. If you or someone else scares the horse, you can end up on the
ground. While horseback riding is fun,
it is also serious business. It is up to the rider to avoid accidents.
11. Always wear boots or leather shoes
when you are working around your horse. These provide more protection for
the foot than do tennis shoes should the animal accidentally step on you.
When riding, boots will slip off if you lose your seat and get a foot
caught in the stirrup, allowing you to escape. Usually, shoes won’t come
off, and if they hang up in the stirrup you could be dragged.
Knots
When you tie a horse with the halter rope,
always use a knot that you can jerk loose in a hurry. If you tie a rope around the horse’s neck,
use a Bowline knot. This is a solid knot that will not slide
tight and choke the animal. If you use a halter as well, run the lead rope
through the halter ring so you control the horse’s head.
Saftey Tips / Unsaddling /
Bridling /
Mounting / Riding manners /
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Saddling up
When you saddle up, work from the left
side of the horse. Many riders prefer to untie the animal and hold the
lead rope in their free hand. That way, if the horse moves he won’t set
back against a solid tie point.
First, check the blanket or pad for
foreign objects such as dirt, straw or sticks. These will cause an
irritation if placed against the horse’s back. Put the blanket and pad in
place, always a little forward of where they actually belong. They are
then slid back into position to “set the hair” on the horse's back.
This helps eliminate the possibility of
saddle sores. It’s a good policy to always keep your saddle blankets
clean. They are not only uncomfortable when caked with dried horse sweat,
but can also cause saddle sores because air can’t circulate through the
material. Use a curry comb to remove as much of the caked hair as
possible. A periodic hosing off, or even taking the blankets to a car wash
and spraying them with a high-pressure hose, will get out the dried sweat,
dirt and remaining horse hair. It doesn’t hurt to wash your cinches at the
same time. Hair and dried sweat can cake on them, making them stiff and
uncomfortable and increasing the chances of rubbing a sore.
When you saddle up, the cinches should be
either hooked onto the hanger on the right side of the saddle or laid over
the seat. After the saddle is on the horse’s back, you can drop them down
into position. You don’t want them flying loose and have a buckle hit the
horse on the right leg when you swing the saddle into position. After that
happens a few times, many horses will begin to shy away when you start to
saddle them.
When the saddle is on the horse’s back,
but before you begin to cinch up, raise the front of the blankets with
your left hand as you raise the saddle with your
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right, and shake it. When you let the
saddle back down, there should be a pocket under the blankets that you can
slide your hand under. This allows room for air to circulate underneath as
well as keeping the blanket from binding over the horse’s withers.
A tight blanket over a horse’s withers is
like you wearing a shirt that is too snug across the shoulders. Raise the
left stirrup and hook it over the saddle horn. This gets it out of your
way. Follow a front-to-back sequence, beginning with the front cinch.
Reach beneath the horse’s barrel and pull the cinch to you. Run the tie
strap through the cinch ring two or three times, leaving enough tail to go
through the carrier slot on the saddle after it is pulled tight. Most
cinches have a tongue that goes through the tie strap to fasten it. If
yours doesn’t, learn the latigo knot.
Pull the tie strap slowly to tighten. Make
sure that the cinch is snug enough to hold the saddle in place if the
animal moves, but don’t pull it completely tight. Some horses will jump or
even flip over backwards if the cinch is immediately snugged up. The next
step is to fasten the flank, or back, cinch. This cinch should remain
loose enough that you can see some space between the strap and the horse,
but not so slack that the horse might hook a foot in it if he kicks at a
fly. If you use a breast collar, attach it last. Buckle the tug strap to
the rigging ring on the saddle first,
and then the tiedown to the cinch. You
should always check the cinch at least three times to be sure that it is
tight. Once after saddling, once after leading the horse a few steps
before you tighten the girth to mount, and again after riding a short
distance. Many horses will take a deep breath as you pull the tie strap
the first time and the saddle will not be tight. Give him a chance to
relax and completely exhale so you can get your saddle tight.
Saftey Tips / Saddling up /
Bridling /
Mounting / Riding manners /
Top
Unsaddling
When you unsaddle, reverse the saddling
procedure, unbuckling the breast strap first and passing it over the
saddle seat. Many horsemen make a habit of buckling the rigging tug strap
around the left stirrup so that the breast strap won’t drag. Unbuckle the
back cinch second and finally the front cinch. That way, your saddle is
securely in place until you’re ready to remove it. Ease around to the
right side and either hook your cinches on the hanger provided or lay them
over the top of the saddle. (Dragging them in the dirt picks up trash that
could irritate your horse’s skin the next time you ride.) Then, returning
to the left side, pull the saddle and blankets off the horse’s back.
Saftey Tips / Saddling up /
Unsaddling /
Mounting / Riding manners /
Top
Bridling
Always stay in close to the horse’s head,
on the left side. Remember to be gentle when you handle the animal’s ears.
Pinching or twisting them can make the horse headshy and hard to bridle.
Untie the halter rope and loop it over your left arm. You want to be able
to get out of the way if the horse jerks back when you are close. Unbuckle
the halter and then refasten it around the neck. This way, you still have
control.
Make sure your bridle is correctly
adjusted before you put it on. The points to consider are proper length of
the headstall and the curb strap. Hold the bit in the palm of your left
hand and the crown of the headstall in your right. Ease the headstall
around in front of the horse and below his mouth. Your right hand will be
over the top of his head. Slip your left thumb into the corner of the
mouth (there aren’t any teeth there). A well-trained horse will open his
mouth and you can slide the bit into place. At the same time, you raise
the headstall and work it over his ears. Be sure that the headstall fits
and is not twisted. If there is a throatlatch, fasten that. Your horse is
bridled and ready to go. When you unbridle your horse, first buckle the
halter around his neck. You don’t want him running off with your saddle.
Unfasten the throatlatch first.Gently slide the headstall over the horse’s
ears and allow him to “spit out” the bit. Just pulling the headstall down
will bump the horse’s teeth and make him headshy.
Saftey Tips / Saddling up /
Unsaddling / Bridling /
Riding manners / Top
Mounting and dismounting
Always lead the horse a few steps from
where you saddled up before mounting. Then, tighten the front cinch. Be
sure that the front cinch is tight so the saddle will not turn.
Before you swing up, check to be sure that
the cinch is not pinching the horse. That could cause him to jump. Never
mount or dismount in a barn, near fences, trees or overhanging
projections. Make sure that the ground underneath you is flat and you have
secure footing. Slipping or sliding under the horse can be dangerous. If
you are on a hillside, be sure that the horse is on the downhill side. You
won’t have to step so high and you will have more control.
Because a horse should stand quietly for
mounting and dismounting, be sure that you always hang on to the bridle
reins when you swing up. Maintain light control to make sure the horse
doesn’t walk off before you’re settled in the saddle. Train your horse to
stand until you signal for him to move off. Standing on the left side, by
the horse’s shoulder, and facing to the rear, hold the reins in your left
hand and grasp the saddle horn. Reach for the stirrup with your right
hand, twist it around and insert your foot. Reach up, grab the saddle
horn, and, as you spring up, pull at the same time. Your body will go up
and turn with your right leg clearing the cantle. Slide your right foot
into the stirrup as soon as you’ve settled into the saddle.
You want your seat to be as secure as
possible. When dismounting, reverse the procedure. Be sure you have a
clear area, good footing, and always maintain a light touch of control.
Once you’re on the ground, immediately slip the reins from around the
horse’s neck and hold them for better control.
Saftey Tips / Saddling up /
Unsaddling / Bridling /
Mounting / Top
Riding manners
Good horseback manners go hand in hand
with having an enjoyable time. Being considerate of other riders and aware
of trail conditions keeps the chances for an accident at a minimum.
1. Keep your horse under control and
maintain a secure seat at all times. Clowning around, trotting or
galloping when other riders are walking, or cutting across switchbacks on
the trail can
be dangerous for everyone.
2. It’s always a good idea to stop and
check your saddle after you’ve ridden half a mile or so. The horse may
have puffed himself up when you cinched up the first time and the saddle
will not be as tight as it should be. Or, your saddle could have slipped
out of position and need to be reset.
3. If your horse becomes frightened at a
strange object, remain calm (your fear can be transmitted to the horse),
speak quietly to steady the animal and give it time to overcome the fear.
(Remember, a horse’s initial response to fear is to run away.) Then, ride
or lead the horse past the obstacle.
4. Hold your mount down to a walk when
going up or down hills. If he begins lunging, he could lose his balance
and fall.
5. Allow the horse to pick his own way at
a walk when riding on rough ground, in mud, or on ice or snow. It’s easy
enough to slip when he’s being careful. Trotting or loping could cause the
animal to fall. Always walk when crossing paved roads or on rocky ground.
Your horse might slip and fall on the slick surface.
6. When you wish to pass other riders, be
sure that there is plenty of room. Let them know that you wish to pass,
then, when there is an opening, ride by.
7. If your horse has a tendency to kick
other animals, always tie a red ribbon in his tail as a warning. Be sure
that you stay out of groups where horses might come up behind you, and tie
up away from other horses.
8. Never ride away from a group until ALL
the members are mounted and ready to go. The other horses may want to move
when your mount does and someone might not be secure in the saddle. If you
ride through a gate, be sure to wait until it has been closed and the
person who has done that chore is mounted and ready before you ride off.
9. Ride abreast (if there is room) or stay
a full horse length behind the horse ahead of you. This helps reduce the
possibility that you, or your horse, might be kicked.
10. Walk your horse when approaching or
going through underpasses or over bridges. If the horse is nervous about
these obstacles, dismount and lead it under or across.
11. Don’t let your horse run to and from
the stables. Always walk the first mile out and the last mile home. If you
leave the barn at a gallop, or lope back, the horse gets in the habit of
running as soon as you swing into the saddle or gets close to home. Either
way, you’ve developed a bad habit, are not in control and could be hurt.
12. If your horse becomes frightened and
tries to run away, pull on one rein to turn the horse in circles,
gradually decreasing the size of the circle. Eventually you will be able
to bring the animal to a halt. The same technique can be used when you are
on foot and leading your horse.
13. Know the proper use and purpose of
spurs before you wear them. Many horses don’t require the use of spurs and
they only aggravate the animal.
Saftey Tips /
Saddling up / Unsaddling
/ Bridling /
Mounting / / Riding manners /
Top
Horsemen’s Terms
Coggins Test—
A blood test given to determine the
presence of Equine Infectious Anemia (EIA). Veterinarians draw a small
blood sample and send it to a laboratory. In many states, a valid negative
Coggins Test is required for entry into activities such as shows, trail
rides, rodeos and other horse events.
Double-Rigged Saddle—A
Western saddle with two cinches, one directly under the horn and a second
behind the rider’s leg.
Equine Infectious Anemia—
An infectious viral disease characterized
by a hemolytic anemia (whereby the red blood cells are destroyed),
depression, intermittent fever and edema (abnormal collection of fluids in
body tissues). It may be spread by biting insects, unsterile injection
techniques or acquired from other horses.
Equine Encephalomyelitis (Sleeping
Sickness)
—An
acute, infectious disease of horses and mules, which can be fatal. It
affects the nervous
system and is spread by mosquitoes, and,
in some cases, ticks. Both the brain and spinal cord are
affected. Horses should be annually
inoculated to prevent infection.
Flight Response—
In the wild, a horse’s primary defense
from predatory animals is to run away.
Domesticated horses have that same trait.
When a horse feels threatened or in danger, he will try to escape by
running away. This is called the flight response. It is up to a horseman
to position himself so that he will not be injured if the horse does try
to escape from an object that the horse feels threatening.
Front Billet—
Offside strap running down from the front
rigging ring on the saddle, which the cinch is attached to.
Lunging—
A horse taking long leaps up a steep hill.
This is dangerous because the animal could become unbalanced and fall over
backwards.
Mount—
a) Refers to a rider’s horse or “mount.”
b) To step into the left stirrup and swing
into the saddle.
Near Side—
Refers to the left side of a horse. All
saddling and bridling is done from the left side.
Off Side—Refers
to the right side of the horse because the saddling and unsaddling is done
from the other (left) side. It is sometimes referred to as the “Indian
side,” because early Native Americans mounted and dismounted from that
side.
Rigging Ring—
Metal rings attached to the saddle, which
the cinches (girths) are tied to. A saddle will have two rings hung
directly under the front (fork), and often a second set behind the
rider’s legs.
Safety Release Snap—
A specially designed snap that can be
quickly unfastened under pressure. Used on halter ropes and trailer tie
ropes so a horse can be quickly released if necessary.
Set the Hair—
The technique of putting a saddle pad on
the horse’s back slightly ahead of where it
should fit and then sliding it back into
position. This pushes the hair down and points it to the rear, helping to
eliminate saddle sores.
Sull Up—
A term describing a horse that has gotten
mad and refuses to move.
Throatlatch—
A strap on a bridle that is attached to
the headstall and buckles around the
horse’s neck just behind the jaws. The
purpose of this is to prevent the horse from rubbing or pulling the
headstall off against fences, limbs or other protruding objects.
Tug Strap—
The short straps used to attach a breast
collar to the rigging rings of a saddle.
Withers-high—
The height at which a horse is tied
(normally approximately 5 feet from the ground) and even with the animal’s
withers. If the tie point is lower, the animal could pull back and “pull
its head down,” injuring it for further use. Or, it could paw with a front
foot and get the leg over the tie rope. A horse should always be tied
“withers-high” for safety.
Hackamore
A hackamore is a type of bridle
without a bit. It is designed to control the horse via pressure points
on the nose and chin. There are three main types of hackamores, the
mechanical hackamore, the side-pull, and the bosal.
Riding Gaits
The horse has four natural gaits and a number
of specialized ones, which are based largely on the pacing
gait. This gait occurs naturally in some American breeds,
notably the Tennessee Walking Horse, Missouri Fostrot, the
Saddlebred, The Fox Trotter and Standardbred, as well as in
the Icelandic Horse.
The natural gaits are simply walk, trot, canter and gallop.
The sequence of footfalls at walk, when it is begun with the
left hind leg, is: 1. left hind; 2. left fore; 3. right
hind; 4. right fore - four distinct and regular beats.
The trot is a two-beat gait in which the horse puts one pair
of diagonal legs to the ground simultaneously and, after a
moment of suspension, springs on the other diagonal. Two
beats can be heard, the first when the left hind and right
fore touch the ground, and the second when the opposite
diagonal pair of legs touches down, following a brief
interval.
The canter is a three-beat gait. If it begins on the left
hind, the sequence is: 1. left hind; 2. left diagonal, the
left fore and right hind touching the ground at the same
time; 3. right fore, which is then termed the "leading leg".
On a circle to the right, the horse "leads" with the inside
foreleg. On a circle to the left, when the sequence is
reversed, the horse leads with its left foreleg. A horse
cantering a right-handed circle on the left lead, or
vice-versa, is said to be on the "wrong lead" or moving with
a "false lead".
The gallop is usually a gait of four beats, but the sequence
varies according to the speed. As a four-beat gait, when the
right fore leads, the sequence is: 1. left hind; 2. right
hind; 3. left fore; 4. right fore, followed by full
Did You Know?
Donna Snyder-Smith
gives you an understandable map for mastering
the foundation building blocks of communication
and training of your horse. Understand PRECISELY
where you are going BEFORE you start your
journey, and you'll spend less time and money
being "lost" along the all too common "dead end
roads" within the equestrian industry.
That most horses have poor posture when ridden?
Do you know that poor posture undermines
1) Safety?
2) Soundness?
3) Control?
4) Comfort?
5) Performance?
Do you know the natural aides?
1) Seat
2) Weight
3) Legs
4) Hands
5) Voice
Do you know when you train a horse, you are
using your aids to:
Control speed and direction
-- BUT YOU MUST ALSO direct the horse's
selection of the muscle groups it uses to
animate its skeleton, to influence its
"carriage" or posture?
Do you know horses are "trained" when their
response to the rider's aids is consistent
(habitual)?
Do you know successful training makes the
desired response stronger than an emotional
choice?
Do you know if you can't control the horse
emotionally, you don't own the horse physically?
Do you know when you can shape (not just
confine) the horse physically, you can control
their emotional energy?
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