Mongolia - General Information

There are four airlines serving Ulaanbaatar: Aeroflot (SU), Mongolian Airlines (OM), Korean Air (KE) and Air China (CA). Passengers traveling via Moscow airport should Scotch tape their luggage’s just as the Mongols do. This prevents petty thefts during transit luggage handling at the Moscow Sheremeteyevo airport.

Air China is on-line with flights out of Australia, Europe and North America, sometimes having same day connecting flights via Beijing twice a week to Ulaanbaatar (Tue & Fri). That is if you arrive Beijing in the morning.

Korean Air is on-line from North and South America, Europe and the rest of Asia with frequent flights to South Korea however with two flights a week between Seoul and Ulaanbaatar. Usually it disconnects, but on some days Mongolian Airlines fly the last segment, and then often it connects.

MIAT, Mongolian Airlines, is the national flag carrier. MIAT fly Boeing 727 rather small aircrafts. MIAT flies to Seoul, Beijing, Hong Kong, Irkutsk, Osaka, Hohhot, Berlin and Moscow. During the summer of 1997 the flight schedule was:

During the last years it have become possible to book individuals over the normal computer reservation systems of the airline industry, whereas for groups, a confirmation may pose some difficulty. Nomadic Journeys can book all flights starting in Ulaanbaatar.

Only Sundays are devoid of air services between Beijing and Ulaanbaatar during our peak summer season. An increasing number of foreign experts travel to and from Ulaanbaatar. Please, book your flights at your earliest convenience.

By rail: The Trans Siberian railway makes it possible to travel overland to/from Europe and to/from Beijing and get off in Ulaanbaatar providing the necessary visa requirements have been met. There are several options to Ulaanbaatar from either China or Russia. However in order to continue the journey by train we are only able to book tickets on the trains leaving Ulaanbaatar for Beijing every Thursday throughout the summer period. And in the direction of Moscow, leaving Ulaanbaatar Mondays. The train service to and from Irkutsk is daily. We may be able to advice you and or connect you with specialized operators providing these.

The train from Ulaanbaatar to Moscow is train number 5. Nomadic Journeys Ltd. can provide train tickets to the following Russian destinations traveling towards Europe from Ulaanbaatar:

• IRKUTSK
• ULAN UDE
• KRASNOYARSK
• NOVOSIBIRSK
• OMSK
• TUMEN
• JEKATERINBURG
• PERM
• MOSCOW

Visas

All visitors to Mongolia require a visa. When you choose to travel with Nomadic Journeys, you will have no problem getting one. Two passport size photographs are required. The cost for the visa is slightly different depending on which of the Mongolian consulates you will have to use. Please calculate USD 25 for each passport and double that for express service. The Mongolian Embassies are situated in some eastern European countries, Bonn, Berlin, London, Washington DC, New York, Toronto, Bangkok, Tokyo, Hongkong and Beijing. In many other countries the Honorary Consulate of Mongolia is also able to issue visas. You should make sure that your passport is marked both for Entry and Exit.

Please note that the processing of visas upon arrival to Mongolia was discontinued in 2001. 

In some countries (e.g. Canada, USA) visa invitations are requested from the visa officer. Pls contact us and we will assist you. 

If you combine a program in Mongolia with Russia or China, visas are needed for these countries as well. A Russian visa is not required for transit passengers at Moscow airport, but you will have to remain in the transit hall. Chinese visas are issued with efficiency in Ulaanbaatar. Russian visas have more complicated procedures in Ulaanbaatar, since Mongolian citizens nowadays require visas to enter Russia which creates a work pressure on the Russian consular services.

Our partner will obtain the necessary permits for domestic travel to any site within Mongolia, except those we fancy sensitive for cultural impact reasons.

Currency

The Mongolian currency is called tögrög (tugriks) and it is not a convertible hard currency. The economic changes have stirred an inflationary pressure. The US dollar is the only recommended currency at present. The US dollar was in fact an accepted form of payment up until 1996, when the government passed a law whereby the national currency need be used in shops and restaurants. Then, the tögrög was almost 500 to one US dollar. After the new government came into power (Sep96), with new monetary policies, the tögrög traded for 600 to the US dollar (October 1996). In 1998 the US dollar became an accepted form of payment for services and items in many places around the capital. Now (year 2002) the tögrög is trading for well over 1100 per US dollar. 

It is possible to change travelers cheques in the capital but a reasonable amount of small US notes should be carried. Only banks cash travelers cheques, and they do so against a fee of 2 percent if you need cash US dollars, and without a commission if cashing tögrög.

Increasingly, handicrafts come out in the market in the capital. You will generally not spend much, whilst on a holiday in Mongolia. Decent shops are non-existent in the interior areas. Shops in Ulaanbaatar, where we are likely to buy any souvenirs, accept American Express and VISA credit cards. Cash advance on Visa card is rapid and efficient at the Trade and Development Bank in Ulaanbaatar.

Cash can be exchanged at all hotels, whilst travelers cheques must be cashed at the banks. Golomt Bank started a 24 hour exchange service in 1998, at Seouliin Gudamj (Seoul Street), next to the Aeroflot office.

Mongolian Time

Mongolia have three time zones, and Mongolian central time is 8 hours ahead of GMT (Greenwich Mean Time). China just have one large time zone, so Beijing, although in a more easterly location than Ulaanbaatar, is 7 hours ahead of GMT. Russia have eleven time zones, and the times after which the Trans Siberian Railway operate is Moscow time (+3 hrs GMT) all through.

Post & Telecommunications

Post & Telecommunications are virtually non-existent in the interior of Mongolia. The Central Post office in Ulaanbaatar is however refurbished. Stamps and post cards are available also at late hours. International telecommunications is available here. Please be aware that telecommunications from Mongolia is expensive. Collect calls are not available. It is possible to call abroad from the major hotels. There is a Poste Restante counter at the Central Post office.

Medical Care

Since 1994 apart from the state hospitals, there is the non-government Yonsei Friendship Hospital in Ulaanbaatar, sponsored by the Korean Yonsei University and Christian missionary groups. All doctors are required to speak English, and they include Mongolian, American and Korean nationals. In the rural areas medical care is limited. On all long trips outside Ulaanbaatar a first aid kit is carried by Nomadic Journeys.

Electricity

The electricity supply is 220 volt AC, 50 Hz. European style 2-(round) pin plugs are the standard but it is best to carry the full gamut of European and North American plug adapters. In the interior we can usually not access any electricity. Fuel generators are sometimes in use.
 

Places & Regions

Ulan Bator - Gobi - Arhangai Province - Hövsgöl - Hentii Wilderness -

Ulan Bator

This weird and strange city just north of the forested Bogd Khan Mountains was founded where it is today in 1778. At the time the city was a completely transient ger city, and before that it moved around for some 140 years before being established where it is now, just beside the Gandan monastery by the Tuul River.

Even today, more than half of the Ulan Bator population live in these traditional dwellings. Some move out into the countryside in summer with their entire gear. About half a million people live in Ulan Bator, which is one quarter of the Mongolian population. The most important sights in Ulan Bator proper is the Museum of Natural History, the Bogd Khan Winter Palace and the Gandan monastery. If these sights are open to the public, we will visit them.

The Natural History Museum house stuffed native animals of all kinds, so we can appreciate the variety of wildlife in the country. The most famous displays are several intact dinosaur skeletons, found in the Gobi. And there are even petrified dinosaur eggs.

The Bogd Gegen was the Living Buddha of the Mongols and considered only second to the Dalai & Panchen Lamas of Tibet. Like the Potala in Lhasa, his residence has been turned into a palace museum. When Bogd Gegen was made the monarch of Mongolia in 1921, his title was changed to Bogd Khan. The Bogd Khan Winter Palace is a replica of Dalai Lamas summer palace, Norbulingka at Lhasa.

His personal ger is on display inside. It is completely covered with snow leopard skins! When Bogd Khan died in 1924, the incarnations were discontinued.

The Gandan Monastery was the only functioning lamasery during the entire communist time. It is still the main monastery of Mongolia. Today, the Mongolian Buddhists receive financial support from India, which is coordinated by the Indian Ambassador in Ulan Bator. He is a Ladakhi, and himself a Rinpoche (saint). These funds seem to be raised by the Tibetan government in exile in India. In the mornings we are usually able to enter the temple and experience the prayers. Photographs are not allowed inside. This should, of course be respected.

Ulan Bator - Gobi - Arhangai Province - Hövsgöl - Hentii Wilderness -

Ulan Bator - Gobi - Arhangai Province - Hövsgöl - Hentii Wilderness -

The Gobi

The Gobi is a general Mongolian description of the entire South, one third of the country. It is not a complete desert, as often perceived by Westerners. It is claimed to hold 33 different ecosystems of which only 3 per cent is true desert. Most of it is semi-desert.

HONGURIN ELS

The Hongur Sands, or the Hongurin Els, is a spectacular 180 kilometers (112 miles) long sand dune. It is several hundred meters high and just about 300 m wide. It is a superb experience of serenity and solitude to be near these sand dunes. At sunset and sunrise, by moonlight, the shifting light causes these dunes to change its character constantly against the green, green grass lawn on the leeward side of this great sand dune. Along its entire length there is an open stream, the Hongurin Gol, and blue iris bloom in profusion in June or July. We will land our chartered twin engine small aircraft at the Hongurin Els in the Sevrej soum, 210 km west of the aimag center of Dalandzadgad. A bus will take us to the starting point of our camel trek.

We will slowly make our way, walking along these sands. Herdsmen live with their livestock just along the sands, since the pasture is very good on the green grass at the leeward edge of the dunes. Camels will be hired locally to carry the equipment, and we will walk along the Hongurin Els for a couple of days. Carts cannot be used in the Gobi, since they do not cope well crossing sand. Thus we will not carry a ger in this area. The trek along the sands to the mountain areas is 50 km, for which we plan 3-4 days. Our jeep trips always cover the Hongurin Els if Gobi is included.

GURVAN SAIKHAN NATIONAL PARK

These mountains are rich in wildlife and we are almost guaranteed to see plenty of ibexes on the ridges in the early morning. It is also quite possible to spot the giant argali sheep. Due to the elevation, the flora encountered is alpine, and surprisingly related to Scandinavian species. Herdsmen even keep yaks here. Most yaks however, are cow and yak cross-breeds which the Mongols call "hainag" (Tibetan: "dzo"). The area around the province capital of Dalanzadgad have indeed received quite a number of tourists over the years, but it is the most accessible and economical of all the areas. And frequently, now that there are many tourism companies in the Gobi itself, we have managed to go around without seeing another single tourist. The Gobi is large enough!

BORDZONGOBI

Far west of Dalanzadgad, in the Nomgon sub-province bordering China, there is an arid plain, which is devoid of any vegetation in the middle, and covered with small shrubs in the extremes. Bordzongobi is a superb wildlife area with an abundance of black-tailed gazelle and the endangered "khulan" or wild ass. It is estimated that approximately 2000 khulan make Bordzongobi their home.

There is also the Bordzongobi Mountains where we make our campsite in a spectacular ravine filled with rock engravings from the period of the Huns. The best we ever have seen in all Mongolia. It is located just by the ruins of a previous monastery. The mountain area also is said to have numerous snow leopards, lynx, argalis and ibexes. Very few people, even herdsmen, roam about in this area. And none at all on the plain itself.

GOBI ALTAI

The extreme west of the Gobi areas. This is where the high Altai Mountains meets the Gobi steppes. The peaks are around 4000 meters above sealevel, and usually snow-capped. It is a very arid region, with very interesting wildlife such as the Gobi bear (Mazalai), wild camels (Havtagai), ibexes, Argali sheep and snow leopards. All present in the Great Gobi National Park. This is the only area where we undertake camel treks. The best month is October. Not too hot.

Ulan Bator - Gobi - Arhangai Province - Hövsgöl - Hentii Wilderness -

Arhangai province

Arhangai is the province due north of the beautiful and partly forested Hangai mountains. It is the transition zone between the steppes and the taiga forests to the North. It is mostly coniferous with patches of birch. The territory spans the high part of the Hangai upland in the basin of the Tamir, Chuluut and Orhon Rivers, large tributaries to the Selenge River, which in turn is the largest tributary of Lake Baikal. It provides Baikal with half its waters. Lake Baikal is the world's largest (in volume), deepest and oldest freshwater lake.

Arhangai is one of the most traditional of Mongolian aimags (provinces). Herdsmen frequently offer you exchange of snuff bottles, a sort of ritual greeting. They harvest hay in August using wooden carts with wooden wheels, whereas in many other parts of Mongolia, the carts have been slightly modernized. We operate in two areas of the Arhangai province: The Horgo and the Jargalant areas.

HORGO NATURE RESERVE

This is the area around Terhiin Tsagaan Lake which was formed when volcanic lava dammed the Sumin River, which then cut a deep canyon through the basalt rocks. The area has recently been declared a nature reserve. There are well preserved cones of extinct volcanoes, especially the Horgo crater itself, which we will be able to climb. It is spectacular scenery. There are large lava fields, with interesting characteristics. There are underground caves, and at some places holes have been created in the lava flow. One of these, the Yellow Dog Hell, is particularly large. And nearby is another one, with permanently cold and fresh water. It is so cold that it contains ice slabs throughout the summermonths.

On arrival with our chartered 17 seater aircraft to the grass airfield at Tariat, our yak carts will be waiting for us. After our luggage has been loaded, we walk across the steppe, to a tributary of the Sumin River. We will pitch camp, and our ger, by the river. The river flows out of a beautiful canyon which abounds with bushes of currants (berries) on both sides. The river is full of fish, mainly lenok, but also grayling. We stay for two nights, and on one of the days, we will hike along this spectacular river canyon and back over the steppe. White-tailed sea eagle nest here, and there may be many marmots on the steppe above the canyon. We will then trek back across the plain around Tariat village, and perhaps find our way to the village shop. We cross over the Sumin River bridge, and pitch camp near the Horgo crater itself. We climb it the next morning and then walk around the crater rim. We will also see the Horgo lava fields area. We will then make for the Terhiin Tsagaan Lake which is just a few kilometers away with its beautiful lakeside campsite. There are even a few tiny, tiny patches of sand beach, for a swim. The lake itself contains fish such as lenok and grayling, and large pike are numerous. There is also perch. The giant taimen migrates to this lake in the fall, but is absent during the summer.

JARGALANT

This is a soum (sub-province) in a remote part of Arhangai. It does not have an airfield, and at the time of writing, we have yet to define exactly how we are going to bring people in to this area. In the west and north, there are mighty rivers - like the Chuluut - blocking overland access. We will have to use suitable a suitable airfield to the south or east, probably Tariat or Tsetserleg, and then truck from there. There are other airfields, but their use is restricted and subject to approval from the air company, and a dispatcher will have to be sent overland to inspect the site.

Jargalant is as beautiful and traditional as anything else the rest of Arhangai province (aimag). It is a sub-province (soum) in northernmost Arhangai. We also operate into neighboring Tsetserleg sub-province (not to be confused with Tsetserleg town which is the province capital). Many of Nomadic Journeys staffs come from this particular area of Mongolia, and tourists have as yet to come there. It lacks spectacular attributes such as volcanic cones and lakes, but perhaps it is the cultural experience, that is the most interesting in Jargalant soum.

Arhangai abounds in historical monuments, most notable are the Uighur and Turkic stone inscriptions erected between 5-700 AD in honor of the Turkish ruler Bilgee Khan and his brother.

There are many herdsmen with their livestock in the Arhangai and we cooperate closely with our Mongolian host families who live in this province. A huge 40 per cent of the entire livestock population in Arhangai are yaks, hence, we will use yak carts to transport our equipment. It is here, where we are able to live up to the principles of ecotourism, by benefiting the well-being of local people. Our director's uncle, is the chief of the soum, and is directly responsible for health care and schools in the area. Nowadays, the souls have to fend for themselves, and there is hardly any cash available buying produce from outside.

Ulan Bator - Gobi - Arhangai Province - Hövsgöl - Hentii Wilderness -

Hövsgöl

LAKE HÖVSGÖL NATIONAL PARK

Hövsgöl (Hubsugul) is the twin lake of Baikal and is located completely within the taiga lifezones of northern Mongolia. Hövsgöl is the second largest lake in the country, after Uvs Nuur. It lies in a narrow basin of alpine peaks which soar over a mile above its clear surface waters.

Hövsgöl is extremely transparent, so pure you can actually drink it. Normally you can see to a depth of 16-18 meters and even to 25 meters (82 ft). The lake is the deepest in Mongolia (262 m/860 ft). It is nearly 640 km long (400 miles). For Europeans it is a remarkable experience to hike around this large pristine body of water, and rarely see any boats, ships or any activity on the lake itself. No wonder, Lake Hövsgöl was recently declared Mongolia’s first ever national park.

You will reach the Hövsgöl province by flight to Mörön. After lunch in the local hotel, and possibly a short visit to the local natural history museum we will transfer north for about six hours by a simple bus, or jeeps (4 hrs). Usually we will choose to break the journey near Mankhan, (midway) and camp in this interesting area.

The next day we will reach the small town of Hatgal at the southern end of Hövsgöl Lake. The town has plenty of gers, however there are many loghouses that resemble the architecture of the neighboring Lake Baikal area in Siberia. From Hatgal we will continue through the forests and mountains of the western shore, and we will reach our spectacular base camp by the shore.

The Hövsgöl Wilderness Camp has only a couple of comfortable gers and they all blend into the environment. There are four beds and a stove in each yurt. Washing is done at the lake. We stay for three nights at the Hövsgöl Wilderness Camp. It is a delight to stroll in this fantastically beautiful area. The flora is especially very rich. The lake is blue and the mountains are visible from the camp. Usually we make a mini trek along the lake shore for half a day. In 1992 we stumbled upon a golden eagle nest with an almost full grown chick. Another day we will make a mini trek up into the nearby mountains and try see wild boar, moose and brown bear. On the distant ridges it may be possible to spot ibexes and/or argali sheep.

When Hövsgöl and Arhangai programs are combined, the group will be transferred by a twin engine chartered aircraft (17-seater) directly to Tariat in Arhangai.

TSAAGAN NUUR

This fantastically beautiful place with some 200 lakes is the lake district of Mongolia. It is situated completely within the taiga lifezone areas bordering Siberia and Tuva. A remarkable nomadic people called the Tsaatan live here. They are reindeer breeding-nomads. They live in the high taiga forest zones and come down the valleys during the winter.

They are reindeer herdsmen. They also hunt sable for their valued furs. There are just 500 Tsaatan people who also have animistic beliefs. Shamanism has survived to this day in the northern areas of Hövsgöl province. They speak a completely different language, which essentially is the related to the Tuvan urianhai, hence a Turkic language. Just 14 families are fully nomadic moving every 2-3 weeks year round. Their children do not go to school (which is unusual in Mongolia). They live in dwellings that resemble tepees or Lapp tents. Superficially they seem related to the Scandinavian Lapps (Sami people). They may often be found on foot or on horse-back, over 20 km from the nearest roadhead.

The Darkhat, a Mongol speaking ethnic group, also live by herding reindeer, but they also engage in other traditional Mongolian activities. Another activity in the Tsagaan Nuur area is of course fishing. Taimen come in impressive sizes here, and the fishing is best in September.

To reach the Tsagaan Nuur area is rather complicated. Flights are possible to the nearby airfield at Renchilkhümbl, but officials maintain that an airfield will indeed be ready in Tsagaan Nuur itself for 1994. And if it is ready, the flight will have to be chartered. We will fly to Mörön, and travel in Russian jeeps from there. It is a beautiful drive. We will allocate 2-3 days. Our local partners will probably have a semi-permanent ger camp ready in this area, for 1994.

Returning is either by flight, directly to Ulan Bator, or a drive back via Hövsgöl Lake (2 days) and then a flight from Hatgal or Mörön back to Ulan Bator.

It is possible to fly back to Ulan Bator on a chartered flight Day 11, thus cutting out Hövsgöl Lake National Park from the program, in which case you fly home on Day 14 which is a Sunday.

Ulan Bator - Gobi - Arhangai Province - Hövsgöl - Hentii Wilderness -

The Hentii Wilderness

The Hentii (Khentei) is a mountain wilderness area only 40 km from the capital which stretches all the way to the Russian border. It lies within the Töv and Hentii provinces. The Hentii hinterlands are completely uninhabited and very rich in wildlife. To be in the Hentii wilderness with a Mongol trapper, is like an in the Alaskan wilderness.

In the Hentii it is possible to spot both bears and wolves. You are likely to see wild boar, maral deer, marmots, lemmings and moose. In one specific area where we usually camp, the wolves howl almost every night. Our trailfinder carries a rifle, in case wolves come too close to our camp to try and prey on our horses. Tulga, our local trailfinder, will fire a warning shot before going to bed, to frighten these predators off.

The lower areas of the Hentii Mountains are near Ulan Bator, and the Terelj National Park. Beyond the main Hentii Mountains is complete wilderness, devoid of human habitation. Due to the lack of pastures, it is unsuited for the livestock breeders. This wilderness area is difficult to penetrate, and rich in wildlife. It extends all the way north to the Russian frontier.

There is some human habitation in the patches of steppe in-between the mountain ridges and forests in the lower areas, that now is to be a national park. This area is exceptionally scenic, yet near the capital. We have seen five wolves casually strolling some hundred meters from the main road! In the lower areas of Hentii, we can use yak and horse carts to transport luggage, as this is the mode of transport in the area. After the first day's trek, we will reach the most northerly families and their gers. Beyond this point it is complete wilderness.

This area is completely covered by deciduous and coniferous forests. Valleys with marshy boggy areas make the use of yak carts further north sometimes impossible. It is rare for anyone to venture into these remote areas in the summer months, and pack horses will have to be used. With our yak carts, we may reach a vantage point from which we can trek to the Gunjin Sum monastery. It is now in ruins, following the persecution in the 1930s. Gunjin Sum lies in a larch forest, and have an eerie atmosphere. In September-October, a few Mongols start hunting many of the wild animals in the area, and they trek and ride to the Estii mineral water springs. On the way they visit the scenic Hagiin Har Nuur (Black Lake). The Hagiin Har Lake is the source of the Tuul River, which flows past Ulan Bator. The marshes are easier to cross in the fall, when very low night temperatures cause them to freeze. Day time weather is usually sunny and nice throughout the period, although, nights are very cold.

Ulan Bator - Gobi - Arhangai Province - Hövsgöl - Hentii Wilderness -

Nadaam in Ulan Bator
The Living Culture Heritage

There are roughly 5 million Mongols today, of whom 2,2 million live within independent Mongolia. The remaining ethnic Mongols live in China (Inner Mongolia) and Siberia in the so called Buryat Autonomous Republic to the east of Lake Baikal. In China and Russia most Mongols no longer live in gers and they have become minorities in their own lands.

Mongolian herdsmen of today share the same lifestyles as those their ancestors have practiced since time immemorial. Their land use patterns date back at least to the time of the Huns and the period during which the Chinese started constructing the Great Wall in 200 BC Their life revolves around their yurts, their livestock and the pastures. More than a quarter of the entire population are semi-nomadic herdsmen. Every Mongolian can ride, in fact they dislike walking.

The capital, Ulan Bator offer a sharp contrast to the herdsmen´s lifestyles. Most modern buildings have been erected by Russians over the last thirty or so years. A quarter of the Mongolian population live in this city, but over half of these urbanites still live in traditional gers. Typical for Mongolia, there is a tremendous contrast between the old and the new modern Russian-inspired gray buildings. There seems to be very little middle ground. The modern Russian impact on architecture and lifestyle is confined to Ulan Bator and a few other towns.

Approximately 6 percent of the population of Mongolia are non-ethnic Mongols. These non-Mongol groups are kazakhs, urianhai (tuvinian) and hoton. Kazakhs are the main inhabitants in western Mongolia, e.g. the Bayan-Ölgii province. They are muslims and speak a Turkic language. Of the Mongolian ethnic groups the Khalkha Mongols make up 70 per cent of the population and the remaining are divided into 14 sub-groups. Westerners find it difficult to distinguish them from each other.

Languages: Until recently all Mongolians learnt Russian in school, but today there is an increased interest in English, German and French. Very few Mongolians speak anything other than Mongolian or Russian. The Mongolian language is of the Uighur-Altai group, and unrelated to European languages. In 1940 the Mongols adopted the cyrillic alphabet, just adding two letters to the Russian version. In 1995 the government plan to reintroduce the traditional Mongolian script. It is however unknown to most people, since very few Mongols were literate in 1940, when the Russian alphabet was introduced by the authorities. In western Mongolia turkic languages like kazakh is spoken.

Religion: Mongolian believers are mostly Buddhists (Lamaists), a Buddhism intimately related to the Tibetan religious beliefs. In fact, it was the Mongols under Altan Khan (1507-83) who installed the first Dalai Lama in Lhasa (Dalai is a Mongol word meaning ocean). During the stalinist regime of Choibalsan in the 1930s there was great persecution of the monks and many monasteries and temples were destroyed. Until recently there was only one functioning monastery in Mongolia, the Gandan monastery in Ulan Bator. Today under the democratization process there is a Buddhist revival all over Mongolia. New monasteries have sprung up, even in temporary shelters like gers. Monks who had been hidden in civil service have gone back into monkshood. For the last 60 years, they had been serving the herdsmen with clandestine religious services.

There has also been an Islamic revival among the Mongolian Kazakhs in the extreme west, and recently the first Mongolian believers made the Haj pilgrimage to Mecca.

Food: Vegetarians are unheard of in Mongolia. People mostly eat meat and milk products. No fish. No poultry.

Although there are potatoes many herdsmen feel there is a "taste of earth" to it. Fruit and vegetables are not commonly seen outside the main towns. Herdsmen do not keep poultry. Mongolian cuisine features lamb and mutton mostly. hey prefer to boil all foods just as in Medieval times. The Kazakhs in western Mongolia prefer goats. Herdsmen milk all their animals including mares, camels and yaks. During the summer, when milk products are plentiful, herdsmen usually revert completely to the "white food" and abstain from meat for a while.

They also pick berries, pine cone nuts and other produce of the forests, when available. From of the mares' milk they make airag (koumiss) which is fermented. The alcohol content can reach 12-15 percent. They frequently distill it and make "Mongolian vodka" out of milk, which is as strong as any vodka.

Herdsmen: The herdsmen, are completely mobile during the summer months. Wintertime is the major constraint for the livestock, as pasture is very limited. Hence, herding families usually stay in one defined winterplace. In the summer, when pasture is abundant, they spread out anywhere where the grass is green. Hence, on different trips we usually do not meet the same people.

Herdsmen are scattered across the summer pastures, and the occasional guest is well treated. It is a matter of course to any Mongolian to stop and talk for a while and they invite guests, even a group 10-15 people, for dried cheese, yogurt, airag etc. We usually buy our meats and yogurts for the expedition from these people - usually live animals such as a goat or lamb. To meet with herdsmen is one of the delights of a trip in Mongolia. They have not suffered significantly during the present changes toward a market economy, but the lack of cash has resulted in many rural areas reverting to a barter economy. Little is available, except for local produce.

The Naadam Festival: July 12th is the Mongolian national day which is celebrated throughout the country. The most popular sports of the Mongols are still the same as they were during the time of the Huns and Gengis Khan. They are Mongolian style wrestling, horse racing and archery. Since time immemorial the Mongols have competed in these "three manly games", all of which were necessary to develop skills for Mongolian warriors. After the democratization of Mongolia, traditions of the past have become even more important and more pronounced. Today, more Naadams are being held. Small regional Naadams are celebrated as well. And at other more traditional timings according to the Lunar calendar.

There are several ways to experience Naadam in Mongolia:

1. National Naadam Games held in Ulaanbaatar 11-13 July every year. On these dates, Naadam is celebrated throughout Mongolia. Local people qualify to go to the largest of them all, the one in Ulaanbaatar itself. It is crowded in Ulaanbaatar during this time, and herdsmen enter the city on horseback. A giant tent city is built overnight on the evening of July 10^th on the Jarmag steppe between the airport and the city center. Horsemen train their horses in on the steppes near the city prior to Naadam. The horses are collected a month prior. A pre-Naadam horse races are held at four different points on , July 3^rd, July 7^th. The wrestling and archery is made in Stadiums whilst the horse races takes place on the Jarmag steppe by the airport road.
   
2. Regional and local Naadams 11-12 July. Most soums (sub provinces) and all aimags (provinces) celebrate their own Naadams. Even at the local level, small Stadium have been built in the soum centers. There are not many practitioners of Archery, hence at local Naadams one should expect to experience wrestling and horse racing only. Whereas in many aimag capitals, Archery competitions will take place. The advantage of the local scene, is of course, that it is smaller, more amateur, and especially wrestling can be seen at close range.
   
3. Small Naadams are becoming frequent anywhere in celebrations of anything. It is just needed an excuse to stage one. These small Naadams are very small by comparison.
   
4. The last 3 years, a giant Naadam have been staged in the open steppes in the commemoration of Mongolian heroes. All have been staged in the month of August. Nor date and site is being made public early. In 1995 in Ovorhangai province celebrating the 360^th day of the birth of Zanabazar.. In 1997 there was four of various sizes. We at Nomadic Journeys, will know well ahead the locations and time to organize special trips for select small groups.

Climate

The mean elevation of Mongolia is about 1500 meters above sealevel (5000 ft) which enhances the sharp continental climate. For most of the year it is very cold, especially at night. Precipitation is low and skies are usually clear during the wintertime. Summers, however, are very pleasant just as in the US and Europe. There is a short rainy season in July and August during which most of the yearly rain falls. Around 67-78 percent of all precipitation falls during the three summer months. This rain, however, is just what we get in northern Europe, at about the same time. Occasional strong winds can come and go quickly. Spring and fall pass very quickly.

In Mongolia the Central Asian desert zones meet with the Siberian taiga. Hence, Mongolia is a country of climatic extremes. Ulaanbaatar is the coldest capital city on Earth. Mongolia is known as the Land of the Blue Sky. Indeed, this is true throughout the winter. Throughout the year, there are 250 sunny days and 9-23 cloudy days. The duration of the period with a mean daily temperature higher than the freezing point lasts about 170-190 days, increasing to the south and southeast up to 200-215 days.

The summer climate, when most visitors are likely to be in Mongolia, could be described as being similar to Scandinavian summers. However, with somewhat more pronounced extremes. E.g. when raining it tend be heavier and shorter. If extended they can cause floods locally. When a cold front comes, hail storms can come and go quickly. There may be more heat, and sudden strong winds. All in all, the weather pattern is very variable over short periods of time. In July 1996 some parts of Mongolia had drought, whereas at the same time other areas had floods and more rain than normal.