Mongolia Mongolia is still a country where half the population maintain a nomadic lifestyle in a pastoral society. This just fits the way of so few people live on this large territory. The country is 12 times the size of Britain with less than 600 miles of surfaced roads and no fences. And this is where the range of reindeers, yaks and camels merge, because of its unusual and varied life zones. Mongolia is a country of growing interest with its unique cultural heritage, landscape, geographical situation and natural ecosystem. Being locked between China and Russia it is in a transition zone, where flora and fauna of Siberia meets with completely different species of the desert and steppes of Central Asia. That's why we say, it's possible to see camels and wild asses, then some reindeers within one region, maybe even within a day if you drive real fast. Mongolia is rich with places of natural beauties, then a visit to nomadic people, exploring their lifestyle makes it even interesting, as they have kept their traditions and style of earliest days relatively unchanged.

We offer a variety of trips throughout Mongolia with fixed departures for you to join in a small international group.  Our Mongolian expeditions on horseback in 2007:       Mongol Horsetrails         Gobi Steppe Ride         Kazakh Eagle Hunter       Hentii Mountains Ride       Horse Trek in Arhangay              Camel Trek near Gobi        Yak Trek - KhanKentii ... and of course we will be combining several of our rides with the Nadaam Games in Ulan Bator and other smaller communities.

General Information

The Gobi

The Gobi is a general Mongolian description of the entire South, one third of the country. It is not a complete desert, as often perceived by Westerners. It is claimed to hold 33 different ecosystems of which only 3 per cent is true desert. Most of it is semi-desert.

HONGURIN ELS

The Hongur Sands, or the Hongurin Els, is a spectacular 180 kilometers (112 miles) long sand dune. It is several hundred meters high and just about 300 m wide. It is a superb experience of serenity and solitude to be near these sand dunes. At sunset and sunrise, by moonlight, the shifting light causes these dunes to change its character constantly against the green, green grass lawn on the leeward side of this great sand dune. Along its entire length there is an open stream, the Hongurin Gol, and blue iris bloom in profusion in June or July. We will land our chartered twin engine small aircraft at the Hongurin Els in the Sevrej soum, 210 km west of the aimag center of Dalandzadgad. A bus will take us to the starting point of our camel trek.

We will slowly make our way, walking along these sands. Herdsmen live with their livestock just along the sands, since the pasture is very good on the green grass at the leeward edge of the dunes. Camels will be hired locally to carry the equipment, and we will walk along the Hongurin Els for a couple of days. Carts cannot be used in the Gobi, since they do not cope well crossing sand. Thus we will not carry a ger in this area. The trek along the sands to the mountain areas is 50 km, for which we plan 3-4 days. Our jeep trips always cover the Hongurin Els if Gobi is included.

GURVAN SAIKHAN NATIONAL PARK

These mountains are rich in wildlife and we are almost guaranteed to see plenty of ibexes on the ridges in the early morning. It is also quite possible to spot the giant argali sheep. Due to the elevation, the flora encountered is alpine, and surprisingly related to Scandinavian species. Herdsmen even keep yaks here. Most yaks however, are cow and yak cross-breeds which the Mongols call "hainag" (Tibetan: "dzo"). The area around the province capital of Dalanzadgad have indeed received quite a number of tourists over the years, but it is the most accessible and economical of all the areas. And frequently, now that there are many tourism companies in the Gobi itself, we have managed to go around without seeing another single tourist. The Gobi is large enough!

BORDZONGOBI

Far west of Dalanzadgad, in the Nomgon sub-province bordering China, there is an arid plain, which is devoid of any vegetation in the middle, and covered with small shrubs in the extremes. Bordzongobi is a superb wildlife area with an abundance of black-tailed gazelle and the endangered "khulan" or wild ass. It is estimated that approximately 2000 khulan make Bordzongobi their home.

There is also the Bordzongobi Mountains where we make our campsite in a spectacular ravine filled with rock engravings from the period of the Huns. The best we ever have seen in all Mongolia. It is located just by the ruins of a previous monastery. The mountain area also is said to have numerous snow leopards, lynx, argalis and ibexes. Very few people, even herdsmen, roam about in this area. And none at all on the plain itself.

GOBI ALTAI

The extreme west of the Gobi areas. This is where the high Altai Mountains meets the Gobi steppes. The peaks are around 4000 meters above sealevel, and usually snow-capped. It is a very arid region, with very interesting wildlife such as the Gobi bear (Mazalai), wild camels (Havtagai), ibexes, Argali sheep and snow leopards. All present in the Great Gobi National Park. This is the only area where we undertake camel treks. The best month is October. Not too hot.

Arhangai province

Arhangai is the province due north of the beautiful and partly forested Hangai mountains. It is the transition zone between the steppes and the taiga forests to the North. It is mostly coniferous with patches of birch. The territory spans the high part of the Hangai upland in the basin of the Tamir, Chuluut and Orhon Rivers, large tributaries to the Selenge River, which in turn is the largest tributary of Lake Baikal. It provides Baikal with half its waters. Lake Baikal is the world's largest (in volume), deepest and oldest freshwater lake.

Arhangai is one of the most traditional of Mongolian aimags (provinces). Herdsmen frequently offer you exchange of snuff bottles, a sort of ritual greeting. They harvest hay in August using wooden carts with wooden wheels, whereas in many other parts of Mongolia, the carts have been slightly modernized. We operate in two areas of the Arhangai province: The Horgo and the Jargalant areas.

HORGO NATURE RESERVE

This is the area around Terhiin Tsagaan Lake which was formed when volcanic lava dammed the Sumin River, which then cut a deep canyon through the basalt rocks. The area has recently been declared a nature reserve. There are well preserved cones of extinct volcanoes, especially the Horgo crater itself, which we will be able to climb. It is spectacular scenery. There are large lava fields, with interesting characteristics. There are underground caves, and at some places holes have been created in the lava flow. One of these, the Yellow Dog Hell, is particularly large. And nearby is another one, with permanently cold and fresh water. It is so cold that it contains ice slabs throughout the summermonths.

On arrival with our chartered 17 seater aircraft to the grass airfield at Tariat, our yak carts will be waiting for us. After our luggage has been loaded, we walk across the steppe, to a tributary of the Sumin River. We will pitch camp, and our ger, by the river. The river flows out of a beautiful canyon which abounds with bushes of currants (berries) on both sides. The river is full of fish, mainly lenok, but also grayling. We stay for two nights, and on one of the days, we will hike along this spectacular river canyon and back over the steppe. White-tailed sea eagle nest here, and there may be many marmots on the steppe above the canyon. We will then trek back across the plain around Tariat village, and perhaps find our way to the village shop. We cross over the Sumin River bridge, and pitch camp near the Horgo crater itself. We climb it the next morning and then walk around the crater rim. We will also see the Horgo lava fields area. We will then make for the Terhiin Tsagaan Lake which is just a few kilometers away with its beautiful lakeside campsite. There are even a few tiny, tiny patches of sand beach, for a swim. The lake itself contains fish such as lenok and grayling, and large pike are numerous. There is also perch. The giant taimen migrates to this lake in the fall, but is absent during the summer.

JARGALANT

This is a soum (sub-province) in a remote part of Arhangai. It does not have an airfield, and at the time of writing, we have yet to define exactly how we are going to bring people in to this area. In the west and north, there are mighty rivers - like the Chuluut - blocking overland access. We will have to use suitable a suitable airfield to the south or east, probably Tariat or Tsetserleg, and then truck from there. There are other airfields, but their use is restricted and subject to approval from the air company, and a dispatcher will have to be sent overland to inspect the site.

Jargalant is as beautiful and traditional as anything else the rest of Arhangai province (aimag). It is a sub-province (soum) in northernmost Arhangai. We also operate into neighboring Tsetserleg sub-province (not to be confused with Tsetserleg town which is the province capital). Many of Nomadic Journeys staffs come from this particular area of Mongolia, and tourists have as yet to come there. It lacks spectacular attributes such as volcanic cones and lakes, but perhaps it is the cultural experience, that is the most interesting in Jargalant soum.

Arhangai abounds in historical monuments, most notable are the Uighur and Turkic stone inscriptions erected between 5-700 AD in honor of the Turkish ruler Bilgee Khan and his brother.

There are many herdsmen with their livestock in the Arhangai and we cooperate closely with our Mongolian host families who live in this province. A huge 40 per cent of the entire livestock population in Arhangai are yaks, hence, we will use yak carts to transport our equipment. It is here, where we are able to live up to the principles of ecotourism, by benefiting the well-being of local people. Our director's uncle, is the chief of the soum, and is directly responsible for health care and schools in the area. Nowadays, the souls have to fend for themselves, and there is hardly any cash available buying produce from outside.

The Hentii Wilderness

The Hentii (Khentei) is a mountain wilderness area only 40 km from the capital which stretches all the way to the Russian border. It lies within the Töv and Hentii provinces. The Hentii hinterlands are completely uninhabited and very rich in wildlife. To be in the Hentii wilderness with a Mongol trapper, is like an in the Alaskan wilderness.

In the Hentii it is possible to spot both bears and wolves. You are likely to see wild boar, maral deer, marmots, lemmings and moose. In one specific area where we usually camp, the wolves howl almost every night. Our trailfinder carries a rifle, in case wolves come too close to our camp to try and prey on our horses. Tulga, our local trailfinder, will fire a warning shot before going to bed, to frighten these predators off.

The lower areas of the Hentii Mountains are near Ulan Bator, and the Terelj National Park. Beyond the main Hentii Mountains is complete wilderness, devoid of human habitation. Due to the lack of pastures, it is unsuited for the livestock breeders. This wilderness area is difficult to penetrate, and rich in wildlife. It extends all the way north to the Russian frontier.

There is some human habitation in the patches of steppe in-between the mountain ridges and forests in the lower areas, that now is to be a national park. This area is exceptionally scenic, yet near the capital. We have seen five wolves casually strolling some hundred meters from the main road! In the lower areas of Hentii, we can use yak and horse carts to transport luggage, as this is the mode of transport in the area. After the first day's trek, we will reach the most northerly families and their gers. Beyond this point it is complete wilderness.

This area is completely covered by deciduous and coniferous forests. Valleys with marshy boggy areas make the use of yak carts further north sometimes impossible. It is rare for anyone to venture into these remote areas in the summer months, and pack horses will have to be used. With our yak carts, we may reach a vantage point from which we can trek to the Gunjin Sum monastery. It is now in ruins, following the persecution in the 1930s. Gunjin Sum lies in a larch forest, and have an eerie atmosphere. In September-October, a few Mongols start hunting many of the wild animals in the area, and they trek and ride to the Estii mineral water springs. On the way they visit the scenic Hagiin Har Nuur (Black Lake). The Hagiin Har Lake is the source of the Tuul River, which flows past Ulan Bator. The marshes are easier to cross in the fall, when very low night temperatures cause them to freeze. Day time weather is usually sunny and nice throughout the period, although, nights are very cold.

Nadaam in Ulan Bator
The Living Culture Heritage

There are roughly 5 million Mongols today, of whom 2,2 million live within independent Mongolia. The remaining ethnic Mongols live in China (Inner Mongolia) and Siberia in the so called Buryat Autonomous Republic to the east of Lake Baikal. In China and Russia most Mongols no longer live in gers and they have become minorities in their own lands.

Mongolian herdsmen of today share the same lifestyles as those their ancestors have practiced since time immemorial. Their land use patterns date back at least to the time of the Huns and the period during which the Chinese started constructing the Great Wall in 200 BC Their life revolves around their yurts, their livestock and the pastures. More than a quarter of the entire population are semi-nomadic herdsmen. Every Mongolian can ride, in fact they dislike walking.

The capital, Ulan Bator offer a sharp contrast to the herdsmen´s lifestyles. Most modern buildings have been erected by Russians over the last thirty or so years. A quarter of the Mongolian population live in this city, but over half of these urbanites still live in traditional gers. Typical for Mongolia, there is a tremendous contrast between the old and the new modern Russian-inspired gray buildings. There seems to be very little middle ground. The modern Russian impact on architecture and lifestyle is confined to Ulan Bator and a few other towns.

Approximately 6 percent of the population of Mongolia are non-ethnic Mongols. These non-Mongol groups are kazakhs, urianhai (tuvinian) and hoton. Kazakhs are the main inhabitants in western Mongolia, e.g. the Bayan-Ölgii province. They are muslims and speak a Turkic language. Of the Mongolian ethnic groups the Khalkha Mongols make up 70 per cent of the population and the remaining are divided into 14 sub-groups. Westerners find it difficult to distinguish them from each other.

The Naadam Festival: July 12th is the Mongolian national day which is celebrated throughout the country. The most popular sports of the Mongols are still the same as they were during the time of the Huns and Gengis Khan. They are Mongolian style wrestling, horse racing and archery. Since time immemorial the Mongols have competed in these "three manly games", all of which were necessary to develop skills for Mongolian warriors. After the democratization of Mongolia, traditions of the past have become even more important and more pronounced. Today, more Naadams are being held. Small regional Naadams are celebrated as well. And at other more traditional timings according to the Lunar calendar.

There are several ways to experience Naadam in Mongolia:

1. National Naadam Games held in Ulaanbaatar 11-13 July every year. On these dates, Naadam is celebrated throughout Mongolia. Local people qualify to go to the largest of them all, the one in Ulaanbaatar itself. It is crowded in Ulaanbaatar during this time, and herdsmen enter the city on horseback. A giant tent city is built overnight on the evening of July 10^th on the Jarmag steppe between the airport and the city center. Horsemen train their horses in on the steppes near the city prior to Naadam. The horses are collected a month prior. A pre-Naadam horse races are held at four different points on , July 3^rd, July 7^th. The wrestling and archery is made in Stadiums whilst the horse races takes place on the Jarmag steppe by the airport road.
   

2. Regional and local Naadams 11-12 July. Most soums (sub provinces) and all aimags (provinces) celebrate their own Naadams. Even at the local level, small Stadium have been built in the soum centers. There are not many practitioners of Archery, hence at local Naadams one should expect to experience wrestling and horse racing only. Whereas in many aimag capitals, Archery competitions will take place. The advantage of the local scene, is of course, that it is smaller, more amateur, and especially wrestling can be seen at close range.
   

3. Small Naadams are becoming frequent anywhere in celebrations of anything. It is just needed an excuse to stage one. These small Naadams are very small by comparison.
   

4. The last 3 years, a giant Naadam have been staged in the open steppes in the commemoration of Mongolian heroes. All have been staged in the month of August. Nor date and site is being made public early. In 1995 in Ovorhangai province celebrating the 360^th day of the birth of Zanabazar.. In 1997 there was four of various sizes. We at Nomadic Journeys, will know well ahead the locations and time to organize special trips for select small groups.