Places & RegionsUlan Bator - Gobi - Arhangai Province - Hövsgöl - Hentii Wilderness -Ulan Bator This weird and strange city just north of the forested Bogd Khan Mountains was founded where it is today in 1778. At the time the city was a completely transient ger city, and before that it moved around for some 140 years before being established where it is now, just beside the Gandan monastery by the Tuul River.
The Natural History Museum house stuffed native animals of all kinds, so we can appreciate the variety of wildlife in the country. The most famous displays are several intact dinosaur skeletons, found in the Gobi. And there are even petrified dinosaur eggs. The Bogd Gegen was the Living Buddha of the Mongols and considered only second to the Dalai & Panchen Lamas of Tibet. Like the Potala in Lhasa, his residence has been turned into a palace museum. When Bogd Gegen was made the monarch of Mongolia in 1921, his title was changed to Bogd Khan. The Bogd Khan Winter Palace is a replica of Dalai Lamas summer palace, Norbulingka at Lhasa. His personal ger is on display inside. It is completely covered with snow leopard skins! When Bogd Khan died in 1924, the incarnations were discontinued. The Gandan Monastery was the only functioning lamasery during the entire communist time. It is still the main monastery of Mongolia. Today, the Mongolian Buddhists receive financial support from India, which is coordinated by the Indian Ambassador in Ulan Bator. He is a Ladakhi, and himself a Rinpoche (saint). These funds seem to be raised by the Tibetan government in exile in India. In the mornings we are usually able to enter the temple and experience the prayers. Photographs are not allowed inside. This should, of course be respected. Ulan Bator - Gobi - Arhangai Province - Hövsgöl - Hentii Wilderness -
Ulan Bator - Gobi - Arhangai Province - Hövsgöl - Hentii Wilderness -The Gobi The Gobi is a general Mongolian description of the entire South, one third of the country. It is not a complete desert, as often perceived by Westerners. It is claimed to hold 33 different ecosystems of which only 3 per cent is true desert. Most of it is semi-desert. HONGURIN ELS The Hongur Sands, or the Hongurin Els, is a spectacular 180 kilometers (112 miles) long sand dune. It is several hundred meters high and just about 300 m wide. It is a superb experience of serenity and solitude to be near these sand dunes. At sunset and sunrise, by moonlight, the shifting light causes these dunes to change its character constantly against the green, green grass lawn on the leeward side of this great sand dune. Along its entire length there is an open stream, the Hongurin Gol, and blue iris bloom in profusion in June or July. We will land our chartered twin engine small aircraft at the Hongurin Els in the Sevrej soum, 210 km west of the aimag center of Dalandzadgad. A bus will take us to the starting point of our camel trek. We will slowly make our way, walking along these sands. Herdsmen live with their livestock just along the sands, since the pasture is very good on the green grass at the leeward edge of the dunes. Camels will be hired locally to carry the equipment, and we will walk along the Hongurin Els for a couple of days. Carts cannot be used in the Gobi, since they do not cope well crossing sand. Thus we will not carry a ger in this area. The trek along the sands to the mountain areas is 50 km, for which we plan 3-4 days. Our jeep trips always cover the Hongurin Els if Gobi is included. GURVAN SAIKHAN NATIONAL PARK These mountains are rich in wildlife and we are almost guaranteed to see plenty of ibexes on the ridges in the early morning. It is also quite possible to spot the giant argali sheep. Due to the elevation, the flora encountered is alpine, and surprisingly related to Scandinavian species. Herdsmen even keep yaks here. Most yaks however, are cow and yak cross-breeds which the Mongols call "hainag" (Tibetan: "dzo"). The area around the province capital of Dalanzadgad have indeed received quite a number of tourists over the years, but it is the most accessible and economical of all the areas. And frequently, now that there are many tourism companies in the Gobi itself, we have managed to go around without seeing another single tourist. The Gobi is large enough!
Far west of Dalanzadgad, in the Nomgon sub-province bordering China, there is an arid plain, which is devoid of any vegetation in the middle, and covered with small shrubs in the extremes. Bordzongobi is a superb wildlife area with an abundance of black-tailed gazelle and the endangered "khulan" or wild ass. It is estimated that approximately 2000 khulan make Bordzongobi their home. There is also the Bordzongobi Mountains where we make our campsite in a spectacular ravine filled with rock engravings from the period of the Huns. The best we ever have seen in all Mongolia. It is located just by the ruins of a previous monastery. The mountain area also is said to have numerous snow leopards, lynx, argalis and ibexes. Very few people, even herdsmen, roam about in this area. And none at all on the plain itself. The extreme west of the Gobi areas. This is where the high Altai Mountains meets the Gobi steppes. The peaks are around 4000 meters above sealevel, and usually snow-capped. It is a very arid region, with very interesting wildlife such as the Gobi bear (Mazalai), wild camels (Havtagai), ibexes, Argali sheep and snow leopards. All present in the Great Gobi National Park. This is the only area where we undertake camel treks. The best month is October. Not too hot. Ulan Bator - Gobi - Arhangai Province - Hövsgöl - Hentii Wilderness -
Ulan Bator - Gobi - Arhangai Province - Hövsgöl - Hentii Wilderness -Arhangai province Arhangai is the province due north of the beautiful and partly forested Hangai mountains. It is the transition zone between the steppes and the taiga forests to the North. It is mostly coniferous with patches of birch. The territory spans the high part of the Hangai upland in the basin of the Tamir, Chuluut and Orhon Rivers, large tributaries to the Selenge River, which in turn is the largest tributary of Lake Baikal. It provides Baikal with half its waters. Lake Baikal is the world's largest (in volume), deepest and oldest freshwater lake. Arhangai is one of the most traditional of Mongolian aimags (provinces). Herdsmen frequently offer you exchange of snuff bottles, a sort of ritual greeting. They harvest hay in August using wooden carts with wooden wheels, whereas in many other parts of Mongolia, the carts have been slightly modernized. We operate in two areas of the Arhangai province: The Horgo and the Jargalant areas. HORGO NATURE RESERVE This is the area around Terhiin Tsagaan Lake which was formed when volcanic lava dammed the Sumin River, which then cut a deep canyon through the basalt rocks. The area has recently been declared a nature reserve. There are well preserved cones of extinct volcanoes, especially the Horgo crater itself, which we will be able to climb. It is spectacular scenery. There are large lava fields, with interesting characteristics. There are underground caves, and at some places holes have been created in the lava flow. One of these, the Yellow Dog Hell, is particularly large. And nearby is another one, with permanently cold and fresh water. It is so cold that it contains ice slabs throughout the summermonths. On arrival with our chartered 17 seater aircraft to the grass airfield at Tariat, our yak carts will be waiting for us. After our luggage has been loaded, we walk across the steppe, to a tributary of the Sumin River. We will pitch camp, and our ger, by the river. The river flows out of a beautiful canyon which abounds with bushes of currants (berries) on both sides. The river is full of fish, mainly lenok, but also grayling. We stay for two nights, and on one of the days, we will hike along this spectacular river canyon and back over the steppe. White-tailed sea eagle nest here, and there may be many marmots on the steppe above the canyon. We will then trek back across the plain around Tariat village, and perhaps find our way to the village shop. We cross over the Sumin River bridge, and pitch camp near the Horgo crater itself. We climb it the next morning and then walk around the crater rim. We will also see the Horgo lava fields area. We will then make for the Terhiin Tsagaan Lake which is just a few kilometers away with its beautiful lakeside campsite. There are even a few tiny, tiny patches of sand beach, for a swim. The lake itself contains fish such as lenok and grayling, and large pike are numerous. There is also perch. The giant taimen migrates to this lake in the fall, but is absent during the summer. This is a soum (sub-province) in a remote part of Arhangai. It does not have an airfield, and at the time of writing, we have yet to define exactly how we are going to bring people in to this area. In the west and north, there are mighty rivers - like the Chuluut - blocking overland access. We will have to use suitable a suitable airfield to the south or east, probably Tariat or Tsetserleg, and then truck from there. There are other airfields, but their use is restricted and subject to approval from the air company, and a dispatcher will have to be sent overland to inspect the site. Jargalant is as beautiful and traditional as anything else the rest of Arhangai province (aimag). It is a sub-province (soum) in northernmost Arhangai. We also operate into neighboring Tsetserleg sub-province (not to be confused with Tsetserleg town which is the province capital). Many of Nomadic Journeys staffs come from this particular area of Mongolia, and tourists have as yet to come there. It lacks spectacular attributes such as volcanic cones and lakes, but perhaps it is the cultural experience, that is the most interesting in Jargalant soum. Arhangai abounds in historical monuments, most notable are the Uighur and Turkic stone inscriptions erected between 5-700 AD in honor of the Turkish ruler Bilgee Khan and his brother. There are many herdsmen with their livestock in the Arhangai and we cooperate closely with our Mongolian host families who live in this province. A huge 40 per cent of the entire livestock population in Arhangai are yaks, hence, we will use yak carts to transport our equipment. It is here, where we are able to live up to the principles of ecotourism, by benefiting the well-being of local people. Our director's uncle, is the chief of the soum, and is directly responsible for health care and schools in the area. Nowadays, the souls have to fend for themselves, and there is hardly any cash available buying produce from outside. Ulan Bator - Gobi - Arhangai Province - Hövsgöl - Hentii Wilderness -
Ulan Bator - Gobi - Arhangai Province - Hövsgöl - Hentii Wilderness -Hövsgöl LAKE HÖVSGÖL NATIONAL PARK Hövsgöl (Hubsugul) is the twin lake of Baikal and is located completely within the taiga lifezones of northern Mongolia. Hövsgöl is the second largest lake in the country, after Uvs Nuur. It lies in a narrow basin of alpine peaks which soar over a mile above its clear surface waters. Hövsgöl is extremely transparent, so pure you can actually drink it. Normally you can see to a depth of 16-18 meters and even to 25 meters (82 ft). The lake is the deepest in Mongolia (262 m/860 ft). It is nearly 640 km long (400 miles). For Europeans it is a remarkable experience to hike around this large pristine body of water, and rarely see any boats, ships or any activity on the lake itself. No wonder, Lake Hövsgöl was recently declared Mongolia’s first ever national park. You will reach the Hövsgöl province by flight to Mörön. After lunch in the local hotel, and possibly a short visit to the local natural history museum we will transfer north for about six hours by a simple bus, or jeeps (4 hrs). Usually we will choose to break the journey near Mankhan, (midway) and camp in this interesting area. The next day we will reach the small town of Hatgal at the southern end of Hövsgöl Lake. The town has plenty of gers, however there are many loghouses that resemble the architecture of the neighboring Lake Baikal area in Siberia. From Hatgal we will continue through the forests and mountains of the western shore, and we will reach our spectacular base camp by the shore. The Hövsgöl Wilderness Camp has only a couple of comfortable gers and they all blend into the environment. There are four beds and a stove in each yurt. Washing is done at the lake. We stay for three nights at the Hövsgöl Wilderness Camp. It is a delight to stroll in this fantastically beautiful area. The flora is especially very rich. The lake is blue and the mountains are visible from the camp. Usually we make a mini trek along the lake shore for half a day. In 1992 we stumbled upon a golden eagle nest with an almost full grown chick. Another day we will make a mini trek up into the nearby mountains and try see wild boar, moose and brown bear. On the distant ridges it may be possible to spot ibexes and/or argali sheep. When Hövsgöl and Arhangai programs are combined, the group will be transferred by a twin engine chartered aircraft (17-seater) directly to Tariat in Arhangai. TSAAGAN NUUR This fantastically beautiful place with some 200 lakes is the lake district of Mongolia. It is situated completely within the taiga lifezone areas bordering Siberia and Tuva. A remarkable nomadic people called the Tsaatan live here. They are reindeer breeding-nomads. They live in the high taiga forest zones and come down the valleys during the winter. They are reindeer herdsmen. They also hunt sable for their valued furs. There are just 500 Tsaatan people who also have animistic beliefs. Shamanism has survived to this day in the northern areas of Hövsgöl province. They speak a completely different language, which essentially is the related to the Tuvan urianhai, hence a Turkic language. Just 14 families are fully nomadic moving every 2-3 weeks year round. Their children do not go to school (which is unusual in Mongolia). They live in dwellings that resemble tepees or Lapp tents. Superficially they seem related to the Scandinavian Lapps (Sami people). They may often be found on foot or on horse-back, over 20 km from the nearest roadhead. The Darkhat, a Mongol speaking ethnic group, also live by herding reindeer, but they also engage in other traditional Mongolian activities. Another activity in the Tsagaan Nuur area is of course fishing. Taimen come in impressive sizes here, and the fishing is best in September. To reach the Tsagaan Nuur area is rather complicated. Flights are possible to the nearby airfield at Renchilkhümbl, but officials maintain that an airfield will indeed be ready in Tsagaan Nuur itself for 1994. And if it is ready, the flight will have to be chartered. We will fly to Mörön, and travel in Russian jeeps from there. It is a beautiful drive. We will allocate 2-3 days. Our local partners will probably have a semi-permanent ger camp ready in this area, for 1994. Returning is either by flight, directly to Ulan Bator, or a drive back via Hövsgöl Lake (2 days) and then a flight from Hatgal or Mörön back to Ulan Bator. It is possible to fly back to Ulan Bator on a chartered flight Day 11, thus cutting out Hövsgöl Lake National Park from the program, in which case you fly home on Day 14 which is a Sunday. Ulan Bator - Gobi - Arhangai Province - Hövsgöl - Hentii Wilderness -
Ulan Bator - Gobi - Arhangai Province - Hövsgöl - Hentii Wilderness -The Hentii Wilderness The Hentii (Khentei) is a mountain wilderness area only 40 km from the capital which stretches all the way to the Russian border. It lies within the Töv and Hentii provinces. The Hentii hinterlands are completely uninhabited and very rich in wildlife. To be in the Hentii wilderness with a Mongol trapper, is like an in the Alaskan wilderness. In the Hentii it is possible to spot both bears and wolves. You are likely to see wild boar, maral deer, marmots, lemmings and moose. In one specific area where we usually camp, the wolves howl almost every night. Our trailfinder carries a rifle, in case wolves come too close to our camp to try and prey on our horses. Tulga, our local trailfinder, will fire a warning shot before going to bed, to frighten these predators off. The lower areas of the Hentii Mountains are near Ulan Bator, and the Terelj National Park. Beyond the main Hentii Mountains is complete wilderness, devoid of human habitation. Due to the lack of pastures, it is unsuited for the livestock breeders. This wilderness area is difficult to penetrate, and rich in wildlife. It extends all the way north to the Russian frontier. There is some human habitation in the patches of steppe in-between the mountain ridges and forests in the lower areas, that now is to be a national park. This area is exceptionally scenic, yet near the capital. We have seen five wolves casually strolling some hundred meters from the main road! In the lower areas of Hentii, we can use yak and horse carts to transport luggage, as this is the mode of transport in the area. After the first day's trek, we will reach the most northerly families and their gers. Beyond this point it is complete wilderness. This area is completely covered by deciduous and coniferous forests. Valleys with marshy boggy areas make the use of yak carts further north sometimes impossible. It is rare for anyone to venture into these remote areas in the summer months, and pack horses will have to be used. With our yak carts, we may reach a vantage point from which we can trek to the Gunjin Sum monastery. It is now in ruins, following the persecution in the 1930s. Gunjin Sum lies in a larch forest, and have an eerie atmosphere. In September-October, a few Mongols start hunting many of the wild animals in the area, and they trek and ride to the Estii mineral water springs. On the way they visit the scenic Hagiin Har Nuur (Black Lake). The Hagiin Har Lake is the source of the Tuul River, which flows past Ulan Bator. The marshes are easier to cross in the fall, when very low night temperatures cause them to freeze. Day time weather is usually sunny and nice throughout the period, although, nights are very cold. Ulan Bator - Gobi - Arhangai Province - Hövsgöl - Hentii Wilderness -
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